A Thousand Hills: Travel Guide Rwanda

Rwanda is one of my favorite countries. Warm people and beautiful landscapes. Safe, clean, and efficient. Economically and environmentally minded.

My first visit was in 2015; today it feels like a second home.

Rwanda will change how you think about Africa.

My number one recommendation?

Enjoy Rwanda as the destination. Spend a week or several—it’s not a short stop on a “bucket list” Africa trip. Rwanda is a place to immerse, connect, and return to.

Since friends and local recommendations are key to real experiences, here are mine.

The Basics

Kigali International Airport (KGL) is small and efficiently run. You can get a visa upon arrival. Its city location makes it a short ride to your hotel.

This will change soon. Kigali Bugesera International Airport is slated to open in 2028. Located 40km southeast, the longer transfer is the trade-off for increased flight availability.

I recommend arranging airport pick-up through your hotel. Enjoy the ride through Kigali’s clean city streets where you might ask Where Am I?

Don’t overplan your first 24 hours. On top of jet lag, you’ll likely feel the effects of altitude. The capital city sits at an elevation of 1500 meters (5100 feet).

Download Move by Volkswagen, the Uber of Kigali. While locals pay via the mobile money app MTN MoMo, you can pay with Rwandan Francs (RWF). ATMs are found throughout the city. 

WiFi is readily available, and you can communicate with your local and international contacts for free via WhatsApp. Should you require regular connection, talk to your phone provider about a daily roaming plan or purchase an eSIM or local SIM.

The best time to travel? Rwanda’s seasons are dry and rainy (March-May, November). Prices are highest during the June-September period. I recommend the shoulder seasons—enjoying the peaceful periodic rains and greater travel flexibility.

Decide on Excursions

Rwanda is so much more than gorillas!

That’s why I curate and lead Venture Travel—to connect us to the kind and inspiring people behind this beautiful country—the people you don’t meet as a tourist.

That said, gorilla trekking in Rwanda is special. If it’s something you wish to do, reserving gorilla trekking permits is step one. There are a limited number of daily permits ($1500 per person per day). As you also need to arrange transport, guide, and lodging, I recommend working with a local team like Go Further to pull the details together.

For a unique safari experience, don’t miss Akagera National Park in the Eastern part of the country. An inspiring story of wildlife conservation and community development, Akagera is home to thriving wildlife and the only rhino population in Rwanda.

On the Western side is Nyungwe Forest National Park. One of the oldest rainforests in Africa and Rwanda’s largest expanse of forest, the park is an immersion in biodiversity—plant life, birds, and primates—including chimpanzees and black and white colobus monkeys.

Seeking an off-the-beaten-path adventure? Hike or bike the Congo Nile Trail. Opened in 2011, the 227 km trail runs south on the eastern shore of Lake Kivu. You can bike (5 days) or hike (10 days) or combine the two.

I recommend working with a local team like Go Gisenyi—this isn’t an easily self-guided hike. It’s also quite rigorous—don’t be fooled thinking it’s a lakeside trek. This Trail will be all the rage a decade from now—because there’s no better way to connect to nature, local people, and rural life.

Once you decide on excursions, you can better plan the timing and length of your Rwanda visit. 

Where to Stay

Rwanda offers a variety of lodging options in Kigali and rural areas. You can follow the guidance of your tour operator, ask them about these recommendations, or book independently.

Four Points Kigali. I generally shy away from Western hotels. But at Four Points, you see African business and leisure travelers mixed with Westerners. The buffet breakfast is outstanding, the service attentive, and the location, pool, and workout room are convenient—as is the on-tap locally-brewed Kweza beer.

ONOMO Kigali. ONOMO is an African brand that attracts African and Western business and leisure travelers. The rooms are minimalist style because you spend most of your time mesmerized by the views from the bar, restaurant, and infinity pool. The location is central, but given the hilltop location, it’s harder to walk places directly from the hotel—transport and parking are readily available.

Eagle View Lodge. An African bohemian-style lodge sitting on a hilltop in Rebero that offers all the conveniences of a hotel with relative disconnection from the city. Private transportation is readily available. The views are spectacular, the choice of rooms diverse, and the staff special.

Laini Home. This self-contained vintage cabin nestled behind a contemporary pottery studio sleeps 2-4 people. Hidden at the end of a road and driveway, enjoy being steeped in creativity and nature while walking distance to the artisans, restaurants, and curated shops of Kigali’s Kimihurura neighborhood.

Sambora Kinigi. Lodging near Volcanos National Park is either ridiculously expensive or backpacker-basic. Sambora’s rooms are worth the splurge. In this little hideaway off of the main road a stone’s throw from the Ellen Degeneres Gorilla Campus, you will be warmed by fireplaces, incredulous food, thoughtful decor, and kind staff. 

Five Volcanoes Boutique Hotel. This 15-room hotel is a visitor favorite and the perfect starting point for activities around Volcanos National Park—gorilla or monkey trekking, biking or canoeing. 

Nyungwe Top View Lodge. The perfect combination of rustic luxury—stunning views, great food, and easy access to the Park. Each private bungalow is named for its volcano, lake or forest view. Your favorite part will be the hot water bottle in your bed during those cool mountain nights.

What To Do

Even with a city view, hilly Kigali is tough to get your arms around. A guided tour is the best way to get your bearings. Then dive into art, sports, fashion, or nature—Kigali has it all.

Go Further City Tour guides take you behind the scenes in their cherished Kigali. Visit bustling markets, mural art, a milk bar, the Kigali Genocide Memorial, a traditional Rwandan lunch, and views of the city and surrounding countryside from Mt. Kigali. You leave with personal stories, a few words of Kinyarwanda, and a Rwandan friend.

Inema Arts Center. The brothers behind Inema are widely credited for putting Rwandan art on the map. They create art and community. Drop by Inema anytime, or check out their website for cool social gatherings—from yoga to dancing to Thursday Happy Hours.

Laini Studio. Even if you don’t stay at Laini Home, visit Laini Studio. Within the gorgeous hidden property is a studio with a founder with a story—you will want to take a clay piece home with its own story. If you have the time, join a pottery-making class.

Haute Baso. Fashion is one of Rwanda’s iconic arts. Haute Baso is growing a brand and an industry—with women at the center. Their Gacuriro boutique offers clothing, accessories, and home goods. A special bonus is the quiet garden, tasty cafe, and outpost of local favorite Kunda gelato.

Question Coffee. If you are going to drink a cup, buy a bag, or take a class or tour, choose Question Coffee. Not only is the Gishushu cafe spacious and welcoming, but Question proudly re-invests sales proceeds into training women farmers across Rwanda.

Kigali Genocide Memorial  A must for every visitor. Through masterful storytelling, the museum explains Rwanda’s 1994 Genocide against the Tutsi and other genocides. You may also hire a driver to visit genocide memorial sites outside of Kigali (Nyamata Church and Ntarama Church). These are not light experiences, but important.

Zaria Court. Slated to open in early 2025, this is Kigali’s newest champion. Linking Amahoro Stadium and BK Arena, it melds Rwanda’s iconic sports and entertainment district. There’s an 80-room hotel, restaurants and bars, and a multi-purpose court for festivals and performances. Check out events at BK Arena, including the NBA’s Basketball Africa League (BAL) which is set to rival soccer as the favorite sport of Rwanda.

Nyandungo Eco-Park. Kigali’s first restored 121-hectare urban wetland is a testament to Rwanda’s dedication to environmental preservation. It’s also your easy escape from the city buzz, with hiking, biking, bird watching, and even an in-park restaurant. 

Car Free Day. On the first and third Sunday of each month, Kigali’s major roads are closed to motor vehicles, allowing people to walk, jog, cycle, and scooter. With locals exercising and making their way to church, these special Sunday mornings are the time to put on your walking shoes and explore the famous hills. 

Virunga Mountain Spirits. It’s the newest must-visit site in Musanze near Volcanos National Park. Step into the beautiful distillery for a tour and tasting of Kari Vodka distilled from local potatoes—and stay for lunch or dinner at Kinigi Grill.

Where to Eat

Rwanda has grown from an African capital city to a culinary destination. My favorites:

Pasta & Basta. With love, from Rome. This newer Kacyiru restaurant has a short menu and wine list—and Chef Federico serves the best handmade pasta in Kigali. You have to walk through a Wines & More store to get there—but trust me, it’s worth it. 

Indabo Café. Delicious and healthy food, fresh juices, and a quiet charming outdoor atmosphere. This respite in Kiyovu is a great place to bring your laptop or book. And don’t forget to check out the plant and ceramic shop.

Treasures of Ikoro. Hidden in a garden space in the heart of Kimihurura, enjoy Chef Eric Wanyonyi’s creations fusing African, Caribbean & European flavors. It’s a small quiet space with a family feel. 

Repub Lounge. Also in Kimihurura, this is a local and visitor favorite. Ask your server to guide you in your family-style ordering of East African favorites. With a bustling bar and music events, settle in and enjoy a feast.

Kultura. Savor the flavors of Southeast Asia meets East Africa in a gorgeous airy space with cocktails and an exceptional wine list. Visit on Sunday evenings for live music and exceptional people-watching.

Meza Malonga. One of those places that years from now you’ll say “I went there when…” Chef Malonga spent years collecting the most interesting spices across Africa so you don’t have to. If Africa had Michelin stars, this place would have several. Stay tuned for the opening of their culinary training center in the Twin Lakes region.

Final Thoughts

Rwanda’s story is beautiful and complex. I recommend some pre-trip reading—particularly Left to Tell and A Thousand Hills to Heaven (both on my Book List 2015)

For additional context, don’t miss this CNN Traveller article.

Finally, my 2015 blog posts Where Am I?, The Last Saturday and Moving Past the Single Narrative provide some unique insights into why for decades this land of a thousand hills is so very special.

Inspired to travel differently? Join me in Venture Travel to Rwanda (October 21-27, 2025)